Tuesday, August 31, 2010

Costly Surgery

I was surprised by the judicious use of disposable materials in the OR here in Kenya, so I made a list of the staff and the disposable materials used during the first operation that I saw in the OR, an inguinal hernia repair:

Medical staff:
1 Physician (non-surgeon) – equivalent to a resident in the American system
1 Scrub nurse
1 Anesthesia tech
1 Circulating nurse

Anesthesia:
2 spinal needles
1 IV catheter
3x 500 ml IV saline
Lidocaine
Ketamine
2 syringes

Surgery:
1 2/0 chromic suture
1 0 nylon suture
1 4/0 nylon suture
1 scalpel blade
12 gauze sponges
10 mL iodine
2 feet of cloth tape
3 pairs of sterile gloves

Very rough materials cost: $20

Now, here’s a list of the staff and disposable items used for the same surgery in the states. This is from memory, so I’m likely going to miss quite a number of things, but you’ll get the point.

Staff:
1 Attending surgeon
1 Resident surgeon
1 Medical student
1 Scrub nurse
1 Circulating nurse
1 Anaesthesia attending
1 Anaesthesia nurse

Anesthesia:
1 IV catheter
Benzodiazepine to calm patient
3x 500 mL IV saline
Paralytic agent
Propafol
1 endotrachial tube
6 syringes
4 EKG pads
6 pairs of exam gloves
2 feet cloth tape
6 sterile gauze pads
1 Bair Hugger (inflatable warming blanket)

Surgery:
3-4 disposable gowns
10 pairs sterile gloves
6 head covers
6 face masks
3x prefilled chlorhexidine prep sponges
1 Ioban antibiotic skin cover
2 SCDs (inflatable leg compression wraps)
2 foam heel pad booties
~5 impermeable paper drapes
2 light handle covers
1 Bovie skin pad
1 Bovie
1 Bovie tip
1 scalpel blade
6 feet of plastic suction tubing
1 Yankaur sucker
1 suction canister
1 sheet Ethicon Prolene hernia mesh
1 0 nylon suture
2 2/0 Vicryl
1 3/0 Monocryl
1 tube Dermabond
1 island dressing

Very rough cost: $2,000

This is just material costs and does not include surgical fees or any supplies used in the recovery room. Nor does it include the cost for the surgeons, anesthesiologists, nurses, and assistants, which are similar orders of magnitude more expensive in the US.

Now, I’m not going to claim that the outcomes of these procedures are the same. I would much rather have my hernia repaired at a hospital in the States than at the one where I’m currently working, but it was still amazing to see that 100x difference in material costs.

One thing that is the same when you compare Kenya and the US is that people have trouble paying their medical bills. The difference is that in Kenya, you know the price upfront since it's posted on the front wall of the hospital. [Click on the picture below to see a bigger version]



Don’t you wish things were this clear in the US? For reference, 80 KSH
= 1 USD and these prices are still a hardship for many families.

Monday, August 30, 2010

Coolest matatu ride ever

So last week, M forgot the adapter for his computer plug when he went to the hospital for the day. Thinking he would need it, I decided that I would go on an adventure to take it to him. Each morning he drives the 20-25 minutes to the hospital with Mungai but I knew there had to be a way to take a matatu there so I set off.

Three matatus and 100 minutes later, I was deposited at the hospital where I found out that M was borrowing an adapter and didn't actually need it. Perfect. Well, I guess I'll have some lunch before heading back. I can't be too upset about the wasted round-trip because it set me up for the coolest matatu ride ever.

On my trip back, I'd been riding for about 5 minutes when we stopped to pick up a young women and her small child that I'd guess was about 13 months old. The woman was veiled and dressed in several bright kangas (the colorful wraps) and had her little boy in a sling made of another kanga. Her hands were full of fruits and vegetables since we'd picked her up at a roadside market. As she boarded the matatu, she hunched forward to climb in and the child started to slip out. I was seated at the window but the man closest to her appeared to be unfazed by her fratic clutching as the little boy started to fall. I threw my arms open and met her eye and she swung the little boy to me. I untangled him from the now untied kanga and she moved past my row to sit down.

She settled her things but then made no move to come back for the child so I settled him onto my lap with his little head coming up to my shoulder. He was such a warm, soft little presence on my lap but I figured this wouldn't last long. After a few seconds, his little head slowly looked upward to me and blinked and I braced myself for his inevitable terrified cries when he realized that I obviously wasn't his mother. He gave me a good long stare but then simply started looking around. He was amazingly calm and just sat contently in my lap. As we whipped around curves, I held his head to my shoulder and he nuzzled in grabbing my shirt monkey-style.

I had heard that in Kenya, children are raised much more communally with extended family, church/mosque members, and close friends constantly passing the babies around. The babies are incredibly secure in their maternal bonds because the mother is always present to nurse but other people spend a lot of time holding them and loving them. Even knowing this, it was amazing to see it in action because he's never, ever seen me before. And frankly, given his age and the remoteness of where we dropped them, I may be one of the few mzungu he's ever seen.

I watched his mother out of the corner on my eye and she didn't appear to think this was strange at all. She could clearly see me but also wasn't watching me intently like I might hurt him. She just relaxed in the back of the matatu and let him be with me. I'm not sure if he could see her or not but if he could, her posture was signaling that this situation was completely natural.

After about 10 minutes she moved past me to disembark and after she climbed down, I scooted over and handed him to her. She smiled and waved at me as we drove away. It was all so simple. Not a single word was exchanged but the whole experience was so lovely. It strikes me that children, babies especially, are probably as close to a universal equalizer amoung women as you can find. This child's mother and I have almost nothing in common but she shared him with me and I helped her keep him safe for a split second. It was such a great moment and I'm so thankful that I took that unnecessary matatu ride because it turned out to be the best one yet.

Sunday, August 29, 2010

Mombasa: Day Two



After two weeks of drinking chai tea, M demanded coffee first thing on Saturday morning. There’s no Kenyan equivalent of Starbucks that we’ve found so far and the concept of “to go cups” is also foreign so we took a seat at a little café for some coffee and pastries.

After the coffee pit stop, we continued to walk until we came to Kongowea, a giant, open-air, second-hand clothing market. There were hundreds of small shops crammed into the area, each selling clothes imported from Canada, the US, and sometimes though rarely, Europe. Second-hand clothes are big business in Kenya and you see evidence of this daily as shirts and hats of American sports teams float by on the street. Apparently post-Superbowl, we’ll see the losing team’s merchandise everywhere according to a local friend. Our favorite so far has been the “Cleveland recycles” shirt we saw last week. Do you think the previous owner knows how recycled that shirt would become?

The owners of the stalls in Kongowea buy clothes by the kilo and typically specialize in one item such as shirts or pants. The upside for us is that all the clothes are in American sizes and I’ve picked up a few skirts and shirts along the way. Other than tourist places, I haven’t seen a single store selling new clothing though I’m sure they exist in certain areas.

We didn’t linger at Kongowea since it’s notorious for pick-pocketing and so we hopped a matatu to Fort Jesus in Old Town Mombasa [that's the flag on top of the fort in the first photo]. Fort Jesus was built by the Portuguese in the late 1500s and then proceeded to change hands a bunch of times.



It is on a gorgeous point of land at the mouth of the harbor. It’s built on coral bedrock so in addition to the fort built above there are rooms and staircases carved into the coral below.





After exploring the fort for a while, we strolled through Old Town which is full of small twisting streets with glimpses of the water if you look down the correct alleys. As previously mentioned, Mombasa is a port city with a very diverse history. At points on our walk, it seemed that we could have been walking through Mumbai, Riyadh, or Nairobi as the neighborhoods shifted ethnically, religiously, and culturally.

We are starting to get the hang of which greetings to use for which people. “Salaama” is said between Muslim Kenyans (who may be ethnically African, Indian, Middle-Eastern or “Arab” as they say here) and is a borrowed word from Arabic (as many Swahili words are). It is currently pretty easy to identify the Muslim Kenyans because the women are veiled and the men wear circular caps; this may change at least for the men after Ramadan. To a non-Muslim Kenyan, you use “Habari” which means “news” in Swahili; “Jambo” is really reserved for tourists. Everyone seems delighted when mzungus make the effort to speak Swahili so we try to use the correct words whenever possible.

We passed several mosques, a Jain temple, and the dhow registration office before making it to our final destination, the spice market. As you can imagine, the spice market is an olfactory delight with bin after bin of freshly ground spices, chilis, peppers, and vegetables used in the Indian-Arab-Swahili fusion that is Mombasa’s cuisine. After a few minutes of haggling, M bought some tea masala (which is currently sipping in his chai as I write this) with the fresh blend of cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, cardamom, cloves, and black pepper.

Since the sky was now threatening rain, we hoofed it back to the ferry and started the journey home. It was a successful first foray into Mombasa especially braving the Ferry by ourselves so we celebrated by going to bed early and going for a long run this morning. Yes, we know we’re in our 20s and not our 60s but believe us, it’s exhausting being foreign all the time! You should come visit if you’d like to find out.

Saturday, August 28, 2010

Mombasa: Day 1

Because of the Promulgation Day that E eloquently described in the previous post, we found ourselves with a long weekend. We took advantage and headed into Mombasa to explore some of the sites in the nearest large city. This journey began on Friday afternoon with a 40-minute matatu ride to the ferry, which shuttles cars and pedestrians from the “mainland”, to Mombasa, which is actually an island (more ferry info later). Once we arrived in Mombasa, we sampled some fresh cassava chips from one of the many vendors immediately off the ferry (delicious), jumped in a tuktuk (a three-wheeled cab-type vehicle, see below), and wove through traffic to a Penny’s (a colleague) house in Nyali (north of Mombasa), who had offered us a bed for the night.



We put down my backpack at the house, relaxed a bit, and then headed out for dinner. In hindsite, because of Ramadan, this weekend may not have been the best week to go to Mombasa to explore the cuisine. The vast majority of the Muslim-owned restaurants are closed for lunch, and many of them are closed for dinner as well. As Mombasa is primarily a Muslim city, this equals little selection. Of course, the restaurant we had previously identified was closed, so we ended up at Tamarind, a famous Swahili seafood restaurant in Nyali, by our host’s recommendation. It was rumored to be the top restaurant in East Africa so we hadn’t planned on visiting yet, but we are so glad we did. We walked through the entrance and onto the patio, which is perched on a cliff overlooking the river that flows past the north side of Mombasa. At this time (around 6:15), the sun was setting, and the view was amazing. See below.



While still admiring the sunset, an otherworldly sound arose from the city; a building cacophony wafted across the river, amplified by the water. We realized that it was the muezzin, or the Muslim call to prayer. The muezzin is heard at dawn, midday, afternoon, sundown, and bedtime. The muezzin (the person) at each mosque climbs the minaret and chants what roughly translates to “hasten to prayer”. Because it was sunset, on Friday, during Ramadan, the call to prayer is apparently more coordinated, so it was actually quite loud. I’m sure you could find a sound clip of the muezzin, but I don’t think it would do what we heard justice. After being here for two weeks, it is starting to feel a bit like home but this sound really brought us back to the fact that we’re sitting in Mombasa, on the Indian Ocean, during Ramadan. This isn’t any old dinner on a Friday night in Cleveland and we talked about how we are so, so blessed to be experiencing this adventure and we are reminded of that during moments like these.

But, as we marveled at the sound and took it all in, this is real life for the waiters of Mombasa and they’d like to seat us now. After eating homemade “upcountry” food for the past two weeks (hearty, little seasoning), we were very excited to try some authentic Swahili (coastal) cuisine. The coast of Kenya has been a hub for Indian, Yemani, Omani, and Portuguese traders for many, many centuries. As a result, the Swahili people are a mélange of these different ethnicities, and their food reflects this diversity as well, in very delicious ways as we soon found out. The flavors of our meal were incredibly robust; we tasted turmeric, saffron, paprika, cumin, and coconut flavors in various elements of our fresh seafood dishes, and I’m sure we missed some. We both agreed that it was the best meal we’ve had in a very long time, especially with the addition of the Tusker beers and the Pimms cup (Pimms is a British alcohol and something we associate with E’s dad; it’s delicious especially when served Tamarind style with banana and cucumber garnishes). All in all, it was a great meal and a very nice start to the Mombasa adventure.

Friday, August 27, 2010

August 27th: A New Day for Kenya

Today is a big day in Kenya. It’s been declared a national holiday and people are even comparing this to a second independence day. Dignitaries from all over East Africa are expected and Kofi Annan as well as other prominent international leaders will also join in the celebration. There are rumors floating about that President Obama might show up but that seems a little far-fetched given the current state of the US economy. No matter who shows up, Kenyans are very excited to celebrate the “promulgation” of the new constitution. Promulgation is not a word we really use all that often but here they mean that it’s the acceptance and start of the new constitution.

I’m going to try my best to explain what happened though of course I’m probably leaving a lot out and misinterpreting some things since it’s pretty hard to explain 60 years of history when you’ve been in a place for 2 weeks. Sorry this blog post is a little dry but we have been living with the news about the promulgation since we arrived so we wanted to share it. Most of this description is from conversations with mzee Mungai over the last few weeks.

The original constitution was designed by a very small group of political leaders in the 1960s. It wasn’t even drafted on Kenyan soil but was written in Lancaster, UK. It was the first attempt to govern Kenya after the British left and as the British flag lowered at midnight on December 12th, 1963, celebrations went off around the country and the Kenyan flag was raised. Jomo Kenyatta was elected president and held this title until his death in 1978. After Kenyatta passed, his VP Daniel arap Moi was elected (using the term elected loosely) and held the presidency until he was constitutionally barred from running again in 2002.

It soon became clear during Moi’s presidency that this particular constitution gave a lot of power to the executive branch and lacked checks and balances. Freedom of speech, for example, was not a constitutional right until 1992. When Moi was “re-elected” in 1988, he didn’t allow the casting of ballots but instead made people stand in lines to demonstrate their vote. Clearly this doesn’t lead to a lot of impartial vote casting and people started to consider the idea of constitutional reform.

As previously mentioned, Kenya is made up of many tribes and with power so concentrated in the executive branch, lack of free speech, and a tribal history, it was quite easy for disparity to spread throughout the country. The President and his ministers were free to squash criticism and could easily allocate money to their own regions or tribes. So while one region might have excellent schools and services, another region may receive no funding for years.

After the 1988 elections and especially after 1992, people began fighting for a more equitable system with checks and balances and a more even distribution of funds and representation from regions and tribes. Still though there was significant opposition to a new constitution from various factions who benefitted from the system.

After Moi’s presidency, the current President Mwai Kibaki was elected and with the help of a ruling coalition promised reforms. These reforms have been slowed by the staggering population growth in Kenya (more than 7%) and the stagnant growth of the economy (0-2% depending on the year). Obviously the massive difference between population growth and economic growth creates a math problem that does not even allow for maintenance of services and makes expansion of services nearly impossible. The frustrations over the inability to achieve reform culminated in post-election violence in 2007 as protestors divided along tribal lines to agitate for changes that benefitted their groups and claim victory for their presidential candidate. Over 1,000 people were killed and 600,000 people were displaced.

This bloodshed marked a turning point though for Kenyans, the majority of whom were horrified that their neighbors were being targeted by tribe or political views. Kenyans are very proud of their peaceful history of self-rule and Kenya is seen as one of the most stable countries in East Africa so the violence was shocking to the average Kenyan. This paved the way for the new constitution.

Among other things, the constitution promises proportional representation from each county (like our electoral districts), guaranteed funds allocated to each district for services, gives significant power to local governments, and includes a bill of rights for Kenyans. It was widely praised internationally and despite fears, peaceably passed via referendum on August 4th, 2010. Mzee Mungai has the dyed fingernail to prove that he voted.

Since the constitution was a compromise, there are still some parts that are “less than ideal” (at least by Western standards) but overall most Kenyans are very happy that it passed. One such element is that the constitution still allows the Kadhi courts (courts for Muslim believers to deal with Marriage, Divorce, and Inheritance) and exempts a portion of the bill of rights for people professing the Muslim faith. Protestors argue that this basically allows one religion to live outside the constitution but supporters argued that the constitution benefitted most Kenyans and should be passed. Since that part only applies “to people professing the Muslim faith”, one could argue that it’s easy to work around but in practice it will clearly be very difficult in some communities. Despite this issue, all the Kenyans that we’ve spoken to are excited about the reforms and the new constitution and acknowledge that compromise with the Muslim community was required to pass the new constitution.

A huge celebration is planned in Nairobi and the army has been practicing for days to be reviewed by the President at the ceremony (sort of like our Inauguration). People here are proud that the constitution passed peacefully and are hopeful for new reforms.

Witnessing this part of Kenyan history has made us very grateful for all we enjoy and take for granted as Americans. It makes you feel ashamed that so many people in our country don’t even bother to vote, let alone pay attention to policy debates beyond snippets on the nightly news. After being here for 2 weeks, you can’t help but feel hopeful for our Kenyan friends and to hope that the promised reforms come through for them.

We have the place to ourselves this weekend since Lucy and Mungai are celebrating with their families. Lucy seemed concerned about leaving us but I assured her that I have a house back in the US and I somehow manage to keep M fed without help back in the US so I'd be fine for the weekend (I said it politely but her concern was fairly amusing). We are going to watch the promulgation ceremony on TV and then head into Mombasa for Saturday to see some of the historic sites.

Thursday, August 26, 2010

Quick Observation #1: Socks

Socks are a rare bird in Kenya. Some people walk around barefoot, many use sandals of various forms. Even in the operating theatre, which might be considered the pinnacle of cleanliness, there are no socks. Footwear choices in the theatre include slip-on sandals (like soccer sandals), Croc-like clogs, and high boots, like galoshes. It’s still a little weird seeing so much toe in the OR. I like to think that I’m as adventurous as the next person, but something about wearing communal high rubber boots without socks tickles me the wrong way. Because of this, I’m the cool guy wearing sandals with socks in the OR. So be it. However, yesterday while driving to the hospital, I realized that in embracing the Kenyan love of wearing sandals to work, I neglected to pack socks. Damn. After quick deliberation, I decided that I couldn’t catch anything incurable from these promiscuous shoes, so I went for it. In a way, it was liberating. So far, I report no ill effects…

Tuesday, August 24, 2010

Dress for Success: Kenya Style



Each day, I get to pick from my collection of skirts and shirts to make an outfit; no one ever wears shorts here. A few of the “skirts” are actually just giant, printed pieces of fabric called “kanga” worn by the Swahili women along the coast. You basically wrap it like a sarong and I like it because it’s just a simple piece of cotton so even if you’re sweaty [which is always], it’s pretty light. I’ve also found a local tailor who has been fashioning a bunch of the kangas into shirts for me and that’s what I’m wearing in the photo above.

The women from the coastal areas typically dress in a similar way but women from “up country” as they call the area near Nairobi will typically dress in more “modern” (their word, not mine) styles like pants or jeans and t-shirts. They believe this modernity is superior but I’m not sure wearing jeans in 90 degrees is progress.

No matter what they’re wearing, Kenyan women dress more modestly than American women of similar ages. Even in “modern” clothes that are fairly form fitting, you don’t see cleavage, upper thigh, or midriff on anyone. Actually, I don't even think I've ever seen a Kenyan woman's knee or shoulder either. To be honest, given the obesity problem in America, we might want to consider Kenyan fashions…but I digress.

To my ensemble, I usually add a hat and sunglasses, copious amounts of sunscreen, and my flip-flops to complete the look. The hat really does scream tourist but since the choice is skin cancer or being passé, I just go with the hat. Plus, it’s not as if I’m a fashion maven in Cleveland so this is all really par for the course.

I’m doing my best to blend in and be respectful, wearing mostly one piece bathing suits except in very touristy parts of the beach. M doesn’t have such problems (other than the need for a hat) since American and Kenyan men wear the same clothes except when some Kenyans are wearing ceremonial dress. I do draw the line, however, when working out. The mwanamke mzungu (white woman) running with M every morning isn’t blending in anyway and there are few people out that early anyway so I wear my regular running clothes then. A few of my roadside “friends” have said they saw me looking “powerful” running with M in the morning and I’m just going to assume that’s a compliment.

Below are two kangas which are always printed with a Swahili proverb or expression. The blue one roughly says "don't tempt fate" and the pink one roughly says “always take care of each other”. The blue kanga used to make my shirt above. We spot new patterns and colors every day and I'm brainstorming other shirt designs that are modest and comfortable.

Tukumbukane siku zote!

Monday, August 23, 2010

Kenya hear me now?

Contrary to popular belief, even though we’re in a Third World country, communication is generally quite good in Kenya. Upon arriving, after setting our bags in the house, Mzee Mungai promptly said, “go to Nakumatt and buy a phone”. We’ve come to find out that even though much of the country does not have ready access to potable water, nearly everyone has a cell phone.

I entered Nakumatt and found the kiosk with the familiar sight of all manner of cell phone. Everything from the most basic to the newest Droid. We hadn’t planned on getting a cell phone, but it seems like it’s the only way people communicate, so it was a necessity. What I was looking for was a phone that could hold phone numbers, receive texts, and make calls. I immediately moved to the basic phone section and honed on a small Nokia phone. Black and white screen, roughly 25 pixels on the 1x1 screen. 2000 KSH (about $25) for the phone, and pay as you go with minutes. No contracts, no service plans. After brief deliberation, I decided to go with Zain as a provider (instead of Safaricom). I purchased 1000KSH of airtime (3 KSH per minute, 1 KSH for text), and was on my way. Another awesome thing about the Kenyan cell phone system is that if I don’t like my Zain service, the next time I purchase minutes, I just buy Safaricom minutes. This makes sense; what the hell is wrong with our country?

So my new phone has other amazing features: 1) When I save numbers to my phone book, I can choose graphics to represent that person. My options are “boy face” and “girl face”. I’ll definitely take advantage of this ingenious feature by reminding myself of the gender of the person I’m calling immediately before the call. 2) The battery lasts forever. I have not tested it to its limits, but I have gone one week without charging, and still had a few bars of battery. Compare this to my phone in the states, well, “phone” is probably a generous description of that object. Greater than 50% of the time the screen was in what we affectionately called “plaid mode”, which as you might imagine, is not the best for viewing. This made my phone quite like a landline without caller ID; I just get crazy and answer any old incoming call, and I’ll have to consult my memory to dial phone numbers. For this service I am charged $50 per month and am not eligible for a new phone for another 18 months unless I want to pay $5,000, give or take.

Joking aside, it is pretty amazing how cell phone technology here has leapfrogged previous iterations. Cell phone service is ubiquitous, but there are few landlines. So far service has been fantastic without any dropped calls or static-filled lines; c'mon, America...

Sunday, August 22, 2010

The equatorial haircut



M was getting a little hot with all his hair. Plus, it was a little puffy. :)

It's a naval tradition when you cross the equator the first time to shave your head or at least dump a bucket of salt water on yourself. I choose the bucket, M the razor.

He visited the barber in Ukunda with Mungai and came out with a lot less hair. He simply wanted it shaved but they did some edging to it which is pretty hilarious because it creates tight corners at his temples. Also, he has fantastic tan lines on his head. I still think he looks pretty good though and it's a lot more comfortable he reports.

Saturday, August 21, 2010

Matatus



Unless you have a personal vehicle in Kenya, you walk or take a matatu. We briefly considered trying to do a long-term car rental but after speaking with Mungai about Kenyan traffic laws, we decided against it. Apparently there are two main laws in the coastal provinces: in town you may go 50 kilometers/hr (about 35 mph), and outside of town you may go 80 kmh (about 50 mph). Kenyans seem to interpret this to mean that they can floor their cars outside of town and in town they should go a little slower. The real kicker was his advice that if you get in an accident, you make sure you go to the police station before the other guy. So, we walk or take a matatu.

Matatus (called dala dalas in Tanzania) are very old, usually very beat up vans. They resemble VW vans and have seats for 14 plus the driver. Notice I didn’t say it “seats 14”. Seats are really very minor in this whole calculation. When full they usually contain 15-20 people including someone who mans the door. You flag him down, tell him where you want to go, and negotiate a rate. When you arrive, you pay him the agreed upon rate or whatever you have on you. Since they usually overcharge us, we try to get it down to no more than 50% over the local rate. [In the picture above, the door man is the guy hanging out the door as the matatus drive around]

Matatus are usually loaded front to back and passengers prefer that you climb over them rather than give up the coveted front seats. Watching M navigate his way to the back of a matatu is good fun.

The matatus tear around the roads around here so when they approach you have to be careful not to wave or raise your arms or they pull over in a shower of dust and gravel. [this is why the photo above is taken from far away as well; I didn't want to be hit while capturing the matatu on film] It is a pretty convenient means of travel once you get the hang of it and it beats racing the “other guy” to the police station.

We used matatus today to do several errands including a visit to the local expat bar, into Ukunda (larger town 20 minutes walk from Diani) to get a Swahili book, and to the tailor to have some clothes made to supplement the ones we brought.

We stopped had lunch at a popular beach bar. We snapped this photo from our table. As you can see, we truly are in a beautiful place. [sorry the image is so small, you can click to make them larger but uploading the larger images takes about 5 minutes and these only take 3]

Friday, August 20, 2010

The Theatre

On Wednesday of my first week at the hospital and the lab in Msambweni, I had my first opportunity to spend some time in the “theatre”, more mundanely known in the US as the OR (operating room). I was told the previous day that I would meet with Dr. Mwouri, the surgeon, at 9 AM, before they started operating. First of all, I would like to ask that the US adopt these surgery hours; medical students and residents in the US routinely arrive at the hospital at 5 am to prepare for the day’s surgeries. I digress. Mr. Katana, a man helping with some of the research, grabbed me from the lab to take me to meet the doctor. He said, “we will wait over here, where Dr. Mwouri parks in the morning”. Stalking physicians in the US is generally frowned upon, but what do I know about Kenya? We finally met the good doctor, and he welcomed me and invited me into his theatre. I was not sure what to expect, but suspected that it was going to be quite different from what I was used to.

Disclaimer: Though many people asked me before I left if I’d be doing the surgeries in Kenya, the country actually has very strict laws regarding practicing medicine in the country. Even the physicians from my school who come over here can’t practice in the hospital, as they’re not licensed in Kenya. So, this is strictly an observership.

I entered the building and immediately came to a small wall, which separated the “outside” from the cleaner “inside”. I was then handed a pair of rubber clogs, and directed to the locker room, where I was to change. After rummaging through a few piles of folded, mismatched scrubs (surely all donated at various times), I found a set that fit satisfactorily, and then attempted to put on my clogs, which I estimate were a size 7. Only about 7 sizes off. I walked out of the locker room like a man playing dress-up with his wife’s heels. Some of the nurses at the front desk noticed my quandary, and another man was directed to take off his slip-on sandals and give them to me. I weakly protested, but he traded with me. After the game of musical shoes, I was ready for action.

A surgical nurse kindly gave me a tour of the facility. The first area he showed me was a small room littered with ancient anesthesia machines, a few rickety beds, and some odds and ends. I figured that it was a storage room. “This is the recovery room”. However, he explained to me that because they lacked such basics as pulse oxymeters and oxygen tanks for patients, the room was not useful to them, so patients just recovered in the hallway outside of the theatre. So it basically was a storage room.

Next, he took me to the storage rooms. These were not the gleaming, sterile, fully-stocked rooms that we’re used to in western hospitals, but rather a few wooden shelves with the very basics: Rolls of gauze, tape, sterile gloves, sutures, syringes, several instrument trays, Foley catheters, etc. They had most things that one would expect in a hospital, but those things that were not disposable were many decades older.

Finally, the theatre. Msambweni District Hospital has two operating theatres. They are white, large, high-ceilinged rooms with (thankfully) air conditioning. There was one older surgical light positioned in the middle of the room, an electronically-adjustable surgical table (older version, of course), a completely analog anesthesia machine (it had two chambers: one labeled “halothane”, the other, “ether”), and a few metal tables. The nurse informed me that they did not have an anesthesiologist, so they did all of their surgeries under spinal (inject some lidocaine into the spinal cord) or local (inject lidocaine into the nerves that innervate the area on which you’re operating) anesthesia. Because this was a “District” and not a “Regional” hospital, the nurse told me that they just did the “very basic” procedures; hernia repair, cesarean sections, appendectomies, etc. Upon hearing this, I was mildly disappointed, as I had seen all of these operations in the states, and inguinal hernia repairs simply aren’t all that titillating. Still, I was sure that the experience would be far different from in the states. I had no idea.

Here’s a list of operations that I saw: Inguinal hernia repair, sliding inguinal hernia repair, amputation of gangrenous middle finder secondary to leprosy, skin graft to cover a foot degloving injury, a varicose vein ligation procedure, patellar wire removal, femur fracture, straightening, and casting for a severely deformed lower limb secondary to rickets, and placement of IV in a child with cerebral malaria. By my count, in the states, these procedures would have been performed by general, orthopedic, plastic, and vascular surgeons. At this hospital, most of the procedures were done by a doctor (someone who had finished medical school and had no specialist training), and a nurse. The surgeon was called in a few times to help with procedures that the doctors had never seen before, but for the most part, the physicians who on most days run the rest of the hospital, performed the operations.

To be clear, these are not all basic procedures, and I was surprised by the skill and willingness of the doctors to perform the surgery. I asked one of the doctors the day after about it, and she said: “I really don’t like the theatre. However, we don’t have a choice. We start the cases, and when we get stuck, we call in the surgeon, who will tell us what to do. We learn very quickly that way. He is very brave in what he is willing to do.” On my first day in the theatre, I saw a few people working very hard with very little, and it was impressive and humbling.

More to come. Below is a photo of hospital grounds.

Our address

We put up our address in the top right hand corner of the blog. We've been told that it takes about 2 weeks but to expect much longer around holidays, etc. Also, everything will be opened and inspected so don't send anything too valuable.

M will post later on his first day in the operating theatre.

Thursday, August 19, 2010

M's Bday & Kenyan Flag

Well I don’t know how to sing happy birthday in Swahili yet but today is M’s birthday! He says that he keeps forgetting it’s his birthday whenever I remind him so maybe he’s getting forgetful in his old age. Today I will walk into town to get him some cake, the upside of being on the outskirts of a touristy area is that we can get things like cake if we are willing to walk a bit.

I imagine it’s a bit weird celebrating your birthday in a country where you know exactly 1 person for longer than 5 days. Someone asked us the other day how long we’d been here and we were both shocked that it had only been 5 days. Although we’re still very much figuring things out, we’ve also learned a lot in just 5 days.
Just before we came, M asked me if I was surprised that we're actually going to Kenya after planning for so long. And the answer was that I'm honestly not surprised at all. I knew when we got married that we'd always push each other. That we would almost never do things the easy way. And that at times it would be exhausting and the rest of the time it would be exhilarating. And that because I like to go to bed really, truly, tired every day, that he was the one for me, because he's the exact same way. So, to my running buddy, my Sherpa, my travel companion, and my mume wangu [husband], HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!



As for the Kenyan flag, pictured above, it was adopted on December 12th, 1963. December 12th is therefore Kenyan Independence day which we're looking forward to in a few months. It was the flag of the independence movement when the Kenyans fought against the British. The black represents the people of Kenya, the green represents the land, and the red represents the blood shed in the fight for independence. The Maasai shield and spears also represent the fighting for independence.

In other news, I found someone to give me Swahili lessons starting at 1 today and M observed in the operating theatre yesterday.

Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Swahili Lesson: Mzungu

Mzungu is the Swahili word for "person of European descent" but it literally translates to "one who wanders around aimlessly" which actually fits quite well into our goals for our trip. The word was originally coined because of the white explorers, missionaries, and slave traders who wandered around in previous centuries generally mucking up things in the region (yes, I know it was more complicated than that but that's where we'll leave that). Interestingly, based on our guidebooks, mzungu does not mean "white" but anyone of European descent because people of Central and East Africa don't categorize people by colors and even if they did, they would think of our skin as pink or red, not "white".

While we're not foolish enough to think that we could blend in (especially in less than a year), we are hoping to learn a significant amount of Swahili. Almost all Kenyans speak their own ethnic language (there are 9 main ethnic groups in Kenya that split into 42 tribes) as well as Swahili and English which are the official national languages and the languages of educational instruction. Attempts to speak Swahili are generally received very positively so we are hopeful that we'll pick up quite a bit. We've already gotten greetings down and the verbs "to be" and "to have" though it's difficult to learn from only phrasebooks so we're going to look for some textbooks this weekend.

Swahili is a language of prefixes. So, for example, the root word is -zungu and mzungu means "person of European descent" and wazungu means "people of European descent". This is why the top of the blog says "wazungu". Also, PETA would be thrilled because people and animals use the same prefixes [m-/wa-] while objects get different prefixes [n-/j-]. There are actually 7+ classes of prefixes but you can make yourself understood with just those two so right now we're sticking with those.

Kwaheri for now! (Goodbye)

Tuesday, August 17, 2010

Job Hunting: Kenya Style


(The above small huts are examples of roadside stands. Click on the picture to see it closer. Sorry it's not a great shot but taking a solid photo would require buying something)

So while M has a bit of a plan while we’re here, I am without anything specific to do. I was excited to find something to do but wasn’t really certain how this whole process should go. I put this concern out of my mind until we arrived but with the arrival of Monday morning, M and Mungai drove off to the lab and left me to my own devices.

I knew that waiting wasn’t going to make this any easier, I showered up and set off on foot towards town. Town is a 25-30 minute walk from our apartment and the road is punctuated by hotels to the left and makeshift homes of boards and tin to the right. The inhabitants of the homes are waiting for the hotel guests to come out so they can sell them something from their roadside stands. Since I wanted to walk against traffic, walking toward town means running the gauntlet of these folks. Dealing with them is unavoidable since they will cross the road to speak to you and withholding a greeting would be considered horribly offensive in Kenya. Since I’d rather be annoyed that offend anyone, the gauntlet it is!

These interactions usually go like this:

Man: Jambo, mama

Me: Sijambo

Man: Karibu (welcome) to my shop! Take a look around, find something you like!

Me: Hapana, asante. (No, thank you)

Man: Maybe tomorrow?

Me: Maybe.

These are occasionally punctuated by questions about my origins and mentioning the US always results in “Ahhh…Barack Obama” who is revered here since he has Kenyan roots. I always smile and tell them that I’ll say hello for them if I ever see Mr. President and they seem to appreciate this attempt at a joke. Or they’re taking me seriously. Who knows. Tough to tell with Kenyans. They are(typically) an extremely light-hearted and friendly people so they laugh during about 90% of conversations.

So, back to my mission. I walked about 25 minutes until I came to the local Christian school. Although there are several local schools, I targeted this particular one because it’s pretty large and I had seen some local students earlier in the week so I knew they were in session. I walked into the tiny “Administration Building” and asked at the only occupied office for the “Head Teacher”. If the man seemed surprised at this random mzungu asking for the Head Teacher he didn’t show it but simply walked off to find him.

The Deputy Head Teacher came back and introduced himself as Munga. I explained my situation, he asked about my training, I said I had none, and he said to come back September 6th and I could help with kindergarten. Huh, that seemed easy. So, I guess I shouldn’t have been worried.

I’m going to confirm with him next week since I don’t want to stop looking if he’s not serious but I think I have a spot when school re-opens. Things are sometimes lost in translation; on our first night when we asked if breakfast was included and they said yes, they meant “yes, we can include it on your bill” and we meant “we don’t have to pay extra, right?”.

What I’ll do for the next 3 weeks is rather unclear but it’ll probably all work out.

Monday, August 16, 2010

1st full day: August 15th



(Photo above is our room for the year)

August 15th is a special day for us before and now the date marks our first full day in Diani.

E and I awoke on Sunday pretty early (around 5 am), as our bodies are not yet accustomed to the time here. As many of you might have guessed, we took advantage by going for a morning run. Though I’ve been dreading the heat of essentially living on the equator, it is “winter” here now, and it is very pleasant in the morning and evening, probably in the mid-seventies and breezy. We came home from our run and enjoyed a breakfast of fresh fruit (banana, tangerine, orange, and papaya), peanut butter and bread (left over from the last lab visitors), and the omnipresent chai tea. Chai is served at basically every meal, and as a side note, is also the word for “bribe” in Swahili. The food was all delicious, but sadly, Mungai informed us that the fruit season was ending, and until next year, bananas would be the primary fruit. C’est la vie. We definitely feel spoiled by Lucy feeding us so well.

After breakfast, Mungai invited us to his church in Ukunda, a town just outside of Diani. In addition to being my lab’s go-to guy for everything, he’s also an ordained Anglican minister. Impressive. E and I donned our Sunday best, and headed to church. We turned off of the main road, called the Mombasa-Tanzania road (a two-lane, modern paved road that stretches along the Kenyan coast through much of Tanzania), and started on a deeply puddled and potholed dirt road. Fortunately, the truck we were in was 4WD, as the holes were feet deep, and even with 4WD, we nearly became stuck several times. I commented to Mungai that the road was pretty bad, and he replied, “no, this is a very good road”. We obviously have a lot to learn. We passed very small shack houses with children playing nearby and chickens running all around. After a five minute drive, we arrived at the church. Constructed with cinderblocks and a corrugated metal roof, the church was spartan, but attractive, with open walls to allow for the breeze to flow through. Mungai introduced us to the other minister, and showed us to our pew. The church, like many things so far in Kenya was a study in contrasts: on one hand the church was clearly impoverished with torn and aged hymnals shared among many participants, and on the other hand, there was a printed sign asking people to turn off their cell phones.

The service began with a song led by several of the parishioners, in English, but more of a Swahili tune. Towards the beginning of the service, the minister asked if visitors would come forward and introduce themselves. Oh boy, we clearly weren’t going to get out of this one! E and I walked to the front of the church and gave our most humble “jambo” (hello) and “asante sana” (thank you very much) and introduced ourselves. Had we known this was going to happen, we would have figured out a short intro in Swahili, but considering the impromptu nature of the event, and it being day two in Kenya, I think we did alright. Much of the rest of the service roughly followed a standard Anglican service in English including the message from Mungai. The hymns were sung in both Swahili and English and as we recognized many of the hymns and could sing along. Though still terribly self-aware and standing out as the only wazungu in the church, it was nice to be able to participate. Aside from the familiar, there was much that was different. The Swahili versions of the hymns were beautiful, with much clapping and swaying to the rhythm of the songs. We could sound out a few words of the chorus, but our vocabularies are limited to greetings at this point, so we couldn’t understand any of it.

We have read much about how Kenyans are very welcoming and generous, and so far have been delighted to experience it. During the church offering, literally everyone came forward and gave what they could into the offering basket. The minister said that last week they had collected 19,000 KSH, equivalent to about $250. Considering the meager wages of most Kenyan people (minimum wage is ~15 KSH/day), this was astonishingly generous. After church, we enjoyed some chai and biscuits (again, very generous), chatted some with the congregants, and then Mungai took us back to Diani. The rest of the day we read at home, took a walk on the beach, and enjoyed the more relaxed pace of life in Kenya.

Now back to August 15th. Five years ago on August 15th, E and I met in the Trinity conference room. Right before I entered the room, our boss Dave said to E “oh, you and M will be funny together” owing to our height differences. Little did he know what was to come. If you’d asked me 5 years ago where I’d be today, I may have said that I’d be married or I’d be in medical school but I don’t think I would have said that I’d be in Kenya, with my wife, going to Swahili church services. So, August 15th is now a special day because it’s the day I found my wife and the day I learned to say “mke wangu” (wife) in Swahili.

Sunday, August 15, 2010

Made it to Diani!

Wanted to update with a quick post that we made it to Diani. We don't have internet at the house yet, so we're writing from a cybercafe. Our trip from Nairobi to Mombasa was uneventful, though I must say, so far Kenya Airways has been far superior to anything the US has to offer.

We were met at the Mombasa by Kuzungu, a man working with the project on the coast. We then drove down the coast road at either a snail's pace behind massively-overloaded trucks, or at 100 km/h, which seems pretty standard here. After an hour's drive, a ferry ride, and another 20 minutes of driving, we arrived at the house where we met Mungai and Lucy. Mungai is the operational manager of all of the University projects and Lucy is the cook. More on them later.

The house is clean and minimalist with a pretty amazing view of the beach. We'll update more later with pictures. For now, we're headed to the beach.

Saturday, August 14, 2010

Still traveling!

We made it to Nairobi! We spent the night in Nairobi and are now on our way back to the airport for our flight to Mombasa.

Flights were generally uneventful and on time. On our first flight we secured a bulkhead exit row giving M an extra 7 feet of leg room and on our second flight we each got our own row. I have to say that it all went extremely smoothly. We grabbed a taxi to our hotel and by that I mean that M sat in the front seat with my 40 lb backpack on his lap, I sat in the back with two gigantic boxes of lab supplies, and the trunk was crammed with our carry-on backpacks and M's large backpack. I have found taxis in other countries to be synonymous with clown cars in that they always seem to be able to fit in all the luggage and people regardless of the size of the car. In the US, taxis balk at ferrying 5 people but elsewhere you simply hear "it's ok" and they just start doing their magic which is a polite way of saying they throw their entire body weight against your bags in order to smash it all inside. I really appreciate the can-do attitude.

Also, for a little comic relief, check out Crocodile Dundee:


Those of you who know M well know that once he gets interested or committed to something, he's very eager to pursue and understand that thing. This has obviously served him very well in the majority of his pursuits in life but occasionally, it's downright hilarious. A few examples of things M has been interested in recently:
  • cranberries (we ate homemade cranberry sauce for weeks last fall)
  • foraging (I've made a lot of mulberry pies in the last 2 years and he once brought home a boombox older than we are)
  • books about food (he read books titled Salt, Cod, and The Big Oyster in a month long span and randomly quoted facts about these things)
Recently, M became obsessed with packing only light-weight technical gear for our trip to Kenya. No expense could be spared in acquiring these items and NOTHING, I repeat nothing, should be cotton or any other natural fiber. So, this is how he came to be seated in the Newark airport looking like Crocodile Dundee but he did inform me that "everything was wicking nicely". I love him, he cracks me up!

Thursday, August 12, 2010

En Route

And we're off!

My Dad is driving us to Newark where we will fly to Heathrow and then on to Nairobi. Without delays, we should land in Nairobi around 9:45 PM local time on Friday. The time difference is currently 7 hours so that's 2:45 PM EST.

Really excited to finally be on our way. I realized the other night that we've been talking about this for a really long time: someone asked us whether we'd ever had Kenyan food and my response was "Yes, M made me a Kenyan meal for Valentine's day in 2009."

We're so excited to finally be on our way! We know there's a lot we're missing over the next year. Birthdays, holidays, weddings, the birth of our godson Finn, and things we probably don't even know about yet. This motivates us to make this the trip of a lifetime and to truly value the support of our friends and families. So, with that, goodbye for now!

Love you all!
E & M

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

Packing



We have packed up and are leaving Cleveland tomorrow morning. We will be transporting 2 large boxes of lab supplies for M so this leaves us with 3 bags for personal gear plus anything we can carry on the plane. We quickly realized that clothes for Kilimanjaro (picture ski gear) and snorkel equipment filled our duffle bag to capacity so we were each left with our hiking backpacks for our yearlong trip.

Things that made the cut:
- Hiking pants
- Linen pants
- 2 bathing suits
- socks + underwear
- 3 long sleeve "sunblock" shirts
- large hats
- 2 running outfits + running shoes
- pair of shorts
- 2 t-shirts (respective college athletic teams of course)
- sarong for E
- scarf for E
- sandals
- one jar of strawberry balsamic jam (the argument for this one was fierce but I needed a taste of home!)
- waterproof jacket
- Guidebooks, Kindle, a few additional books
- 2 cameras + cases
- binoculars
- hiking boots
- hospital clothes for M: 2 pairs khakis, 2 button downs, 1 tie
- sunscreen, bug spray, toiletries

That list might seem long but I've packed more for a 3 day weekend.

Here I am holding all my clothes for the year:


Here's M holding all of his clothes for the year. He'd like me to add that he's doing it all with one hand and I needed 2:


Things that didn't make the cut:
- hair dryer (not a real loss)
- makeup (not crying over this one either)
- anything cotton except the t-shirts
- anything that showed E's knees or shoulders (except bathing suits for the pool in the compound)
- anything that can't be handwashed
- anything irreplaceable

We got everything into our backpacks and have met the weight limit. Of course there's a chance that some or all of this stuff won't actually make it to Kenya. I don't have a great track record with checked bags arriving at my destination in a timely fashion so we've packed a few items in our carry-ons and are hoping for the best. It'll all get there eventually and if it doesn't, that probably ok too.

Monday, August 9, 2010

Dreams

The thing about going to tropical foreign countries, aside from the excellent beaches and abundant fruit, is the diseases. Several months ago, we were vaccinated against all that we could be, but malaria is one of those bugs that does not yet have a vaccine. Dr. Wiki will explain more about malaria if you're interested: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malaria. To prevent malaria when traveling to an endemic area, people generally use a combination of insect repellent, bednets, avoidance (i.e. don't go outside late at night when the mosquitoes are biting), and chemoprophylaxis (read: antimalarials). Just a few days ago, E and I took our first dose of mefloquine, which is taken once per week. Mefloquine is the drug of choice in many areas now because of the prevalence of chloroquine-resistant malaria. One thing that many travelers will tell you about the antimalarials is the vivid dreams and hallucinations that they cause. A famous story at my school involves a very well-recognized doctor running naked through the halls of an African hospital after he started taking his mefloquine. We prepared ourselves for the worst, but so far, nothing out of the ordinary. However, it does mean that we're leaving for Kenya very soon!

Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Shots, shots, shots, shots

No, not the awesome club song that John played for us in Sanibel, I mean actual, with a needle, shots. And mom, please don't look that song up because as M's dad says they don't use "nice talk".

One of our earliest activities in preparation for Kenya was to get our shots in April. We needed vaccinations for Hepatitis, Diptheria, Tetanus, Yellow Fever, and Meningitis. M had already had some of these shots because of working in the hospital but I was the lucky recipient of 2 shots in each arm plus a blood draw to make sure that I had high enough antibodies to some other common pathogens like Rubella and Measles. In addition to these shots, we also got an oral vaccine for Typhoid Fever and a lot of counseling on malaria pills and how we will need of copious amounts of DEET (bugspray on steroids).

Apparently our daily routine will be something like: wake up, shower, apply DEET over every square inch, apply sunscreen over every square inch, and then reapply at approximately 10 minute intervals throughout the day because we're both pretty albino and totally susceptible to malaria. Lovely. Nothing to make you feel clean post-shower like DEET.

The best part, besides getting shots that made me unable to lift my arms for 4 days, was talking about being in Kenya. The doctor in the travel clinic specialized in infectious diseases and had been to Tanzania before to do research. She said that it was a life-changing experience for her and it made us so excited.

Monday, August 2, 2010

The details


Hi All!

E here. Since M led the way filling you in on the initial plan, I thought I'd give a few more details about our plan for the next year. We leave August 12th and the travel plan is Newark --> London --> Nairobi --> Mombasa --> Diani. We will arrive in Nairobi late on the 13th and stay the night before flying on to Mombasa on the 14th.

When we tell people we're moving to Kenya, we typically get the same questions: Where exactly is Kenya in Africa? Where is Diani? And how big will your hut be? Can M even fit in a hut?

Most people know that Kenya is in Africa and that it produces fast runners. In fact, I can't tell you how many people made jokes about me learning to run faster while in Kenya while I was training for the marathon - hey, one can only hope! Other than those two facts though, most of us (M and me included) know very little about Kenya.

Kenya is on the Eastern Coast of Africa on the "horn" part of the continent that sits below the Middle East and the Persian Gulf. It is bordered by Somalia and Ethiopia (to the north), Tanzania (to the south), and Uganda (to the East). The biggest city is Nairobi in the middle of the country and Mombasa is the second largest city on the coast. We're living in Diani about 45 minutes south of Mombasa. Click on the map above to see a close-up of our location.

Coincidentally, as soon as I told my friend Clementine that I was going to Diani, she said "oh, Diani Beach Hospital saved me after an episode of food poisoning". Of course it did. If you know Clem, this was a perfectly normal thing for her to say, otherwise, most people haven't heard of it.

We are not living in a hut. We will be living in an apartment-type of house that the lab owns. As previously mentioned, M will be working in a lab while in Diani and the lab owns this housing and has graciously offered us a place in that apartment (there are 3-4 bedrooms which are occupied with people coming and going on lab business). This arrangement is fantastic because it means that we don't have to find our own living quarters and know we have a place to stay immediately when we arrive. We've seen a few pictures but we will update you on the living arrangements when we arrive and figure them out. Very excited to get there!

How it all began



Hello reader, M here! As inaugural posts, we thought it would be a good idea to start from the inception of this Kenya scheme, and then take us to the present day. So, come back in time with me to the year 2008-ish.

2008 - After E stole my heart and we were engaged in May, we began to discuss plans for the future. Unfortunately for a medical student (and the spouse of one), this topic primarily consists of the following discussion:

Spouse: "Wouldn't it be awesome if we could do X?! When could we do that?"
Medical Student: "Yeah, that would be fun, but I have to be here for rotations / exams / the school has not yet released our schedule and I have no idea if we can go or not."

After several discussions of similar tenor, we both began to feel a bit constricted by the medical school schedule. Several weeks or months later, while discussing something unrelated, E expressed her desire to visit Africa, which she'd had for a long time. She could never really pinpoint why she wanted to go there, but something piqued her interest.

At this point, E had been working hard at her job in Boston, spending most of her weekends in Cleveland. She was sacrificing time with her friends in Boston, professional development at a job at which she did exceedingly well, and enduring countless delays at Logan Airport, all for our relationship and for my medical career. I wanted to make similar sacrifices for her, but with my scheduling constraints, I felt helpless. Finally, I realized that we could do both: my med school allows for a 5th year of medical school for those who do a year of research, which can be abroad. Perfect! Several weeks had passed since our original conversation and I'm sure it was no longer on E's mind, but one day I said "let's go to Africa!". It took me a little while to convince her that it was actually feasible, but we at least had an outline of a plan now!

I met with several physicians who had research abroad, and settled on one at the Global Health center at school who has been doing infectious disease research on the coast of Kenya for over 15 years. Among other things, his group looks at transmission rates of various disease (malaria, etc.), and the effect of several infectious diseases on newborns (i.e. Mom is infected, what does that do to her baby?). Pretty interesting stuff! His lab and projects are well-established, he was more than willing to have us, and he said the he could find plenty of work for me in Kenya. Sounds good!

Now back to my better half. While it's great to have things set up (relatively) from a research perspective, this leaves E, who is not a medical student, in a more difficult situation, not having anything to do and all. We spoke with several people who spent some time in Kenya with their spouses, and while there are volunteer opportunities (a local school, and orphanage, a rehab clinic), nothing can be set up until arrival. While not ideal, E is being a trooper and taking a leap of faith by showing up in a foreign country without anything formally arranged. I'm truly blessed that I'm married to a woman for whom I am sure this will not be a problem! When we first talked about Kenya, one of the first things out of her mouth was "I want to be fluent in Swahili". Those of you who know E know that she is a sponge, and within the first week of arriving, I know that she will already be teaching me useful phrases and customs so that I don't stand out any more than a 6'7" white guy needs to. I'm a pretty intrepid guy, but it's comforting to know that I'll be exploring with someone who is equally intrepid, not to mention my best friend.

As this blog is now at a length where I may lose my reader before I even had him/her, I'll conclude. In the last several months, we have rented our house to some Irish surgeons, boarded our dog (thanks Mom and Dad), stored and/or loaned our cars, E quit her excellent job, and I've finished third year of medical school. We're approaching the end of the first year of our married lives, and I think that we are both more nervous about this coming year than we were about the past. We're only a few days from departure now, and I kind of can't believe that we're actually doing it. I know that it's going to be amazing, not only because of the once-in-a-lifetime sites and experiences, but also because E and I will get to spend a year together (relatively) unencumbered by medical school and work. I look forward to early morning runs when it's still cool outside, struggling to construct Swahili phrases together, and spending evenings enjoying each other's company, rather than studying for the next test or finishing a powerpoint to meet tomorrow's deadline. We're so fortunate to have the opportunity to share this time together, and we hope that you'll check in from time to time and see what we're up to!

Until next time,

M